Just off the bottling line, I was the first in the world to taste the 2020 Barbaresco from bottle with Aldo Vacca. It pours a jewel ruby, which Aldo thought was probably pre-bottle shock. A pretty wine with aromas of ripe raspberry (almost liqueur), sweet licorice, and fresh violets, it is medium to full-bodied, with pure, ripe fruit of red cherry, blood orange, dusty earth, and pressed flowers. This is a lovely wine out of the gates, and it will be interesting to see how it settles. Drink 2024-2040.

Plum and cherry flavors are shaded by wild scrub and crisp tannins in this compact red. The balance is on the tannic side today, yet there's ample length, so give this a year or two to settle in. Best from 2026 through 2038. 36,000 cases made, 3,500 cases imported.

The 2020 Barbaresco is a lovely, harmonious wine that will drink well with minimal cellaring. Forward fruit and soft curves are perhaps a bit uncharacteristic for young Barbaresco but that also make the wine very enjoyable. Juicy red cherry/plum fruit, rose petal, spice, cedar, mint and tobacco all meld together in the glass. Classicists will probably prefer other vintages, but it's hard not to like the 2020 for its charming, effusive personality. At the same time, aeration brings out greater aromatic presence and a good deal of structure, too.